The problem is that the turning ch-3 does not look like the rest of the double crochet stitches in the row, and it also leaves an unsightly gap between the ch-3 and the stitch next to it.

The following are a few alternative ways to start a double crochet row. I’ve included the written instructions, or you can watch the video below for a step-by-step demonstration of each stitch.

(dc = double crochet, ch = chain, st = stitch, YO = yarn over)

Stacked Double Crochet (Stdc)

The Stacked dc is essentially two single crochet stitches stacked on top of each other.

1. Turn without making a chain. Insert the hook into the first stitch, and pull up a loop.
2. YO and pull through 2 loops to complete the first part of the stitch.
3. Next, insert the hook back through the bottom left loop, and pull up a loop.
4. YO and pull through 2 loops to complete the Stacked dc.

Standing Double Crochet (Sdc)

The Standing dc makes a freestanding dc using an extended loop.

1. Pull the last loop of the row until it is a little more than the height of a dc row, and turn.
2. Holding the loop in place on the hook, YO the entire loop.
3. Insert the hook into the first st and pull up a loop.
4. YO and pull through the first loop and both strands of the larger wrapped loop.
5. YO and pull through 2 loops to complete the Standing dc.

* Note: Both Stacked dc and Standing dc may be abbreviated as Stdc. When using a crochet pattern, be sure to check the abbreviations to see which one you should be making.

Linked Double Crochet (Ldc)

Using a Linked dc at the beginning of the row, after the turning ch-3, eliminates the gap between the ch-3 and the next stitch.

1. At the end of the previous row, ch-3 and turn.
2. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook, and pull up a loop (this acts as the YO of the double crochet).
3. Insert the hook into the second stitch and pull up a loop.
4. YO and pull through 2 loops, twice, to complete the Linked dc.

Watch this video to learn these three alternative ways to start a double crochet row:

Put these stitches into practice with these patterns:

Luckily, there is an alternative: Foundation stitches, where you create the chain as you go. It’s kind of like a cartoon I remember when they quickly built the train tracks as the train was going down the track.

I shared the Foundation Double Crochet (Foundation dc, or Fdc) in a previous post. Since then, I’ve learned a couple more tricks to make foundation stitches even better. So, this time, I’m showing you how to do the Foundation Single Crochet (Foundation sc or Fsc) with these extra tips added in.

The Foundation Single Crochet stitch creates the chain as you go, so you don’t have to make the chain first. To do the Fsc, first insert the hook into the chain from the previous stitch, so you have 2 loops below the hook, and pull up a loop. Next, yarn over (YO) and pull through only one loop. This creates the chain for the stitch you are about to make. Then, complete the stitch by doing a YO and pull through two loops.

As a result, the sc stitches are joined with a chain along the bottom as you go. You can make any stitch into a Foundation stitch by adding the extra loop at the beginning of the stitch and using that as the chain as you go across.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the Foundation Single Crochet stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

I call it, unsurprisingly, the Cord Stitch.

The Cord Stitch is a 2-row repeat, in which the first row creates the cord effect, and the second row emphasizes it.

Here’s the pattern (US terminology: sc = single crochet, ch = chain, st = stitch):

• Chain as many stitches as you want, plus 1 turning ch.
• Row 1: First stitch: Make a sc. Then, with the first loop still on the hook, insert the hook back through the top loop, and pull another loop through, so there are 2 loops on the hook. After the 1st stitch: Insert the hook into the next st and pull up a loop. YO and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. Then, with the first loop still on the hook, insert the hook back through the top 2 loops, and pull another loop through, so there are 2 loops on the hook.
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in the back loops only (there are 2 back loops) of each stitch across.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the cord stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

When you make cables using front- and back-post double crochet stitches, you crochet around the post of a stitch and skip the top of it. This leaves an open stitch that sticks out and can make the back of your piece look like a lumpy, ugly mess.

That’s fine if you’re making something that you’ll only look at from the front. But if you’re making a cable blanket or another item that you’ll see the back of, you’ll want to clean it up a little.

You can easily clean up the back by adding a single extra loop to your cable stitches! All you do is start the front- or back-post double crochet as usual, and when you still have 2 loops on the hook, insert the hook into the top of the stitch that you would normally skip, and pull up a loop. Then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. On the opposite side from the cables, it will look like a half-double crochet stitch instead of a skipped stitch.

Watch this video to learn how to connect both front- and back-post double crochet to the top of the stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

The Spatter Stitch creates a lacy mesh that looks like interconnected wheels, flowers, stars, or as the name suggests, spattered droplets. In fact, it’s a simple shell stitch with added chains to create the delicate lace.

Here’s the pattern (US terminology: sc = single crochet, ch = chain, dc = double crochet, sk = skip):

• Shell = <Dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc> in same st or space.
• Chain a multiple of 6 + 2. 
• Row 1:  Sc in the second ch from the hook. * Sk 2 ch. Shell in the next ch. Sk 2 ch. Sc in the next ch. * Repeat between * * across. The last sc should be in the last ch.
• Row 2:  Ch 5 (counts as dc + 2 ch), turn.  Dc in the first sc. * (Sk 1 dc + 2 ch.) Sc in the next dc (the Peak). (Sk 2 ch + 1 dc.) Shell in the next sc (the Valley). * Repeat between * * 2 more times. (Sk 1 dc + 2 ch.) Sc in the next Peak. <Dc, ch 2, dc> in the last sc.
• Row 3:  Ch 1, turn. Sc in the first dc. * (Sk 2 ch + 1 dc.) Shell in the next Valley. (Sk 1 dc + 2 ch.) Sc in the next Peak. * Repeat between * * across. The last sc should be in the middle of the ch-5.
• Repeat Rows 2-3.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the spatter stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

The crab stitch is also called the reverse single crochet stitch, because you crochet backwards, in the opposite direction than you usually do. The resulting stitch creates a wrap-around affect that makes a nice, simple border for crochet projects. Unfortunately, crocheting in reverse can be somewhat awkward, slow, and difficult to maintain your tension. (Watch a crab stitch tutorial here.)

Luckily, you can get the exact same look of the crab stitch by crocheting forward! By adding a simple step to your single crochet stitch, you can make the Forward Crab Stitch.

Watch this short video to learn how to crochet the forward crab stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

The Cane Stitch consists of overlapping double-crochet-2-together (DC2TOG) stitches straddling a ch-1 space. The result is a lightweight, elastic fabric with lots of tiny holes. Rows and rows of this stitch looked like chair caning to me, so I called it the Cane Stitch. It’s easy to learn and works up quickly in a 1-row repeat.

The Cane Stitch is perfect for warm weather clothing and blankets. Give it a try!

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the cane stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

The Mushroom stitch is easy to learn and works up quickly in a 2-row repeat. The mushrooms are actually made upside-down starting with the cap in one row and then the stem in the other. The result is row after row of happy slanted mushrooms!

Here’s the written stitch pattern in US terminology:

• To crochet the mushroom stitch, start with a chain in multiples of 4, then add 2 more chains.
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. * Ch 3. 4 dc around the post of the sc you just made. Sk 3 ch. Sc in the next ch. * Repeat between * * across, ending with 1 sc in the last ch.
• Row 2: Ch 4, turn. * Sk 2 dc. Dc in the next st. Ch 2. Sk 1 dc. Sc in the top of the ch-3. * Repeat between * * across.
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in the first st. * Ch 3. 4 dc in the sc you just made. Sk ch-2 sp plus the dc. Sc into the sc. * Repeat between * * across. The last stitch (sc) goes in the top of the ch-4.
• Repeat Rows 2-3 until you’ve reached the desired length.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the mushroom stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

The Plumage stitch starts with a foundation chain in multiples of 8 plus 5 more chains. The domed feather shape is created by using foundation stitches to crochet up one side and then back down the other. After the first row, the stitch continues with a 4-row repeat. Switch colors after every 2 rows to really highlight the stitch.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the plumage stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

The mini-C2C stitch comes to the rescue! The mini-C2C stitch uses half-double crochet (hdc) stitches instead of double crochet stitches to make smaller squares.

To do the mini-C2C stitch, start with chain 4, then hdc in the last 2 chains from the hook. This makes the first row, and the first square. The second row starts with chain 4, then hdc in the last 2 chains from the hook, just like the first row. Then, to create the unique construction of the C2C stitch, flip the first row/square so that the chain-2 on the side is now on top! Next, slip stitch into the chain-2, then chain 2 and do 2 hdc in the same chain-2. The subsequent rows are similar to the second. Keep adding diagonal rows until the piece matches the dimensions you want. Then, start decreasing to close the rectangle shape.

To decrease, start by turning without a chain, and slip stitch in each of the 2 hdc you just crocheted, and in the chain-2 space. Then, chain 2 and do 2 hdc in the same chain-2 space. Slip stitch in the chain-2 on top of the next square, then chain 2 and do 2 hdc in the same space. Continue making the steps until you’ve reached the next to last square. Slip stitch in the chain-2 on top of the last square, and stop there. The remaining rows are made the same way, until you end with the final square in the opposite corner from where you started.

Like the larger C2C stitch, the mini-C2C stitch creates interlocking squares with stitches that face different directions, like a basketweave pattern. As a result, you can assign colors to each square to create an image. Because the squares made by the mini-C2C stitch are smaller, you can create a more detailed graph in the same amount of space.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the mini-C2C stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

The corner to corner stitch, abbreviated C2C, fits that description. Made entirely of double crochet (dc) and slip stitches, the C2C stitch is so named because it’s worked diagonally from corner to corner.

To do the C2C stitch, start with chain 6, then dc in the last 3 chains from the hook. This makes the first row, and the first square. The second row starts with chain 6, then dc in the last 3 chains from the hook, just like the first row. Then, to create the unique construction of the C2C stitch, flip the first row/square so that the chain-3 on the side is now on top! Next, slip stitch into the chain-3, then chain 3 and do 3 dc in the same chain-3. The subsequent rows are similar to the second. Keep adding diagonal rows until the piece matches the dimensions you want. Then, start decreasing to close the rectangle shape.

To decrease, start by turning without a chain, and slip stitch in each of the 3 dc you just crocheted, and in the chain-3 space. Then, chain 3 and do 3 dc in the same chain-3 space. Slip stitch in the chain-3 on top of the next square, then chain 3 and do 3 dc in the same space. Continue making the steps until you’ve reached the next to last square. Slip stitch in the chain-3 on top of the last square, and stop there. The remaining rows are made the same way, until you end with the final square in the opposite corner from where you started.

The C2C stitch creates interlocking squares with stitches that face different directions, like a basketweave pattern. As a result, you can assign colors to each square to create an image. The C2C stitch is commonly used to make graphgans, but also looks great in a solid color or in stripes.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the Corner to Corner stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns:

Most crochet projects start with a foundation chain. Sometimes, it would be better to not make a chain first. For example, the length of a chain is often different from the final item once you add the main stitch, so it can be difficult to predict how long the chain should be. And sometimes there just is no chain there to stitch into, and you need to stitch into thin air.

The Foundation Double Crochet (Foundation dc, or Fdc) stitch creates the chain as you go, so you don’t have to make the chain first. To do the Fdc, first yarn over (YO), then insert the hook into the chain from the previous stitch. Next, YO and pull through only one loop. This creates the chain for the stitch you are about to make. Then, complete the stitch by doing a yarn over (YO) and pull through two loops, twice.

As a result, the dc stitches are joined with a chain along the bottom as you go. While a Foundation Double Crochet is probably most common, you can make any stitch into a Foundation stitch by adding the extra loop at the beginning of the stitch and using that as the chain as you go across.

Watch this video to learn how to crochet the Foundation Double Crochet stitch:

Put this stitch into practice with these patterns: